How is it to go on a hiking adventure with Topo Travel, when you’re super motivated but a slow hiker, and you don’t speak swedish ? No suspens here : it is an awesome experience, and I’m sharing it with you !
Who I am I, and how I ended up in Lofoten with Topo Travel
Hej ! I’m Stephanie, a french girl who’s been living in Sweden for almost 4 years. I started hiking a few years ago and did my first 1-week backpacking trek in 2023. I am not a beginner, I just have a slow pace, enjoy looking at the landscape and taking photos. I can walk far even with a big backpack, but I’m not used to the mountains. Last year I signed up for a trek in Nepal with a french agency, and I trained for 9 months to make sure I’ll be able to reach the pass at more than 5100 meter altitude. Despite my training (of which going up and down Hammarbybacken hill in Stockholm), I was still too slow for the group. Everybody was supportive and nice, but I was mostly alone in the back, pushed by the nepalese guide and having very little breaks, because we were on a schedule to reach the next pension. Why am I telling you this ? Because after this experience, I decided that never again I’d do a guided hiking adventure with a group. That I’d rather go alone or with my hiking buddy (hey Annika !) who has the same pace and mindset as me. But I’m writing this blog about a guided hiking trip in Lofoten, so obviously I changed my mind a few months later…
The Lofoten islands have been on my very long list of places to visit. I’ve never been to Norway, and I was aware that hiking there is next level, so I knew I’d need to go with a guide or someone who knows the place already. I’ve been following Topo Travel on instagram for a couple of years, did an online Swedish Mountain Hike course with them, and participed in some of their hiking events and challenges in Stockholm. When they posted about a hiking adventure in Lofoten, I was really conflicted, because it looked awesome but I didn’t want to live the Nepal experience again.
So I wrote to Emma Svensson from Topo Travel, told her about my previous experience and addressed my concerns. She was really comprehensive and supportive, and reassured me : there would be 2 guides, so if needed, we could split up the group depending on the pace of the different hikers. I gave myself the night to think about it, but I already knew I wanted to do it. I booked the next morning !
I had plenty of time to get organised and to continue my regular training. There was an included 16-week training plan with hikes and strength exercices : it’s really well made, but I followed only part of it, as I was already involved in several walking and elevation challenges (still at Hammarbybacken !). The website had all the important information about the trip. We also had an online video-chat to discuss the details and get answers to our questions. So, it was pretty straight-forward to get organised. We just needed a small day-pack, the hiking gear and rain-protection, our favourite snacks, and our good mood ! All the rest was included.
Topo Travel base-camp : a luxuous villa in the middle of the Lofoten islands
We were based in a luxuous villa located in the middle of the Lofoten islands, making it easy with our minibus to reach hiking places in different areas. Living in a place like this felt like cheating on my adventure, but I changed my mind after the first hike : it was actually awesome to be in such a comfortable and warm place ! I haven’t used the jaccuzzi, but enjoyed the warm sauna, especially when the day had been rainy (so, almost everyday, ahah !). There were rooms with double beds, but as a solo traveller, I was in a shared room with bunk-beds. I have to admit it was a bit tough to climb in my upper bed after a hiking day, but somehow I got used to it.
We were a group of 8 people, and there was another group of 6 people in a villa nearby. The best thing about being in a group with swedish people, is that you can get your quiet alone time, ahah ! As an introvert, I really need to be in my bubble and to cut-off from the noise and interactions from time to time. And here it was perfect : I got very nice social interactions with chatting, card games, music blind-test, but I also got my peace moments for reading, doing my instagram posts, doing crochet, or meditating alone in the sauna.
The food was included, and there was a rotation system to cook dinner according to pre-established menus. I don’t like cooking, but I can make a salad and dress / undress a table, so I guess this was fine… The thing is that everybody was doing a bit of something, and it worked well. There was also a large selection for breakfast, and more than enough food to prepare sandwiches for lunch. During the hikes, there was also the possibility to boil water to make noodles and soup. So, I didn’t starve, and actually went back home with most of my snacks, lol.
The view from the living room was incredible, and on the first night, I found myself laying on the couch at 5 AM, in front of the wide windows, enjoying the view on the mountains and the sea. No matter if there were clouds, or rainbows, or shining sun : the landscape was stunning in every kind of weather ! And we got to experience more of this landscape with wonderful hikes.
Topo Travel’s experienced guides for safety, tips and flexibility
We had 2 guides, August and Gaby, and at some point Emma and Nico joined us. There was also Olivia, a photographer who took amazing photos of us and the landscape.
I am super organised and love to prep my adventures, but this time I decided to let go and trust the agency. Apart a few photos on Instagram, I hadn’t looked into places names or famous rocks, so every hike was a big surprise to me. And there are actually so many hikes that can be done in Lofoten, with various difficulty levels ! The program stated that the hikes would be pretty flexible, « according to the weather conditions and the group’s day form » (source : Topo Travel website). So we didn’t know which hikes we’d do until the evening before, and I’m pretty sure that the trip will look different when they do it again next year. And this is pretty cool !
That’s when the knowledge of our guides was precious : by checking the topography on the maps, the weather predictions and wind force/direction in different parts of Lofoten, they were able to suggest safe hikes for the next day. They also chose the hikes that were adapted to our group general fitness, and I think everyone got a nice balance between challenge and fun. There was always one guide in front with the faster people, and one guide in the back with the ones who needed a bit more time. I can’t talk for the super active people in front, who had a sure foot and a faster pace, but it seems that they enjoyed the hikes and the longer breaks. As expected, I was in the back (but not too far) and I didn’t feel any pressure from the group or the guides. I was slow but not struggling too much, as I could do several breaks while going uphill. The guides were really kind and supportive, and this whole experience made my hikes very enjoyable ! They also gave lots of tips about how to walk on specific terrain, and I learnt a lot of techniques.
Most of the pre-hike discussions and explanations were in swedish, which I don’t understand (well, I know the word flodhäst, but for sure we were not going to see any hippo…). I tried my best to stay focus, but often zoned out in my bubble. On the field, it was a bit easier to guess what they were talking about, as I could follow hand gestures showing the paths. I still had a short explanation in english, either spontaneously or when I asked for it. As I told one of the guides, it’s my own fault that I don’t speak swedish yet, and I knew it would happen like this. As long as I have the safety information regarding the hikes, that’s actually good for me.
Despite this little struggle and feeling a bit left-out sometimes, I actually felt included in the group : the one-to-one discussion, or in smaller groups, were in english, so I could participate. There were many exchanges of experiences, questions about cultural differences… The group was really nice !
The hikes
Hike Svolvær – Djeveltrappa / Fløya / Djevelporten – 4.2 km, 530m elevation
For my first hike in Lofoten, we went to Svolvær. We did a great hike, going up 500 meters over a short distance. Actually the first part of the hike is a gigantic stairway, made by nepalese sherpas. I kept turning around to admire the view. I was so amazed to see these green mountains going directly in the sea, and all these littles houses and islands linked by small roads and bridges !
At a crossroad, our guides stopped and decided on a strategy : we’d take the « very demanding path » to the Fløya viewing point, then go to the Devil’s gate, and hike down until being back to the sherpa’s stairs. When I saw the sign about the classification as a very demanding path, I wondered in which trouble I was putting myself again… But step by step, following the guides, stepping here and using my hands to climb a little bit there, we reached to top !
We had sunshine, followed by heavy rain showers, and the weather kept changing all the time. On top, it was also very windy and cold, so it was a constant walz of clothe layers to put on and off. But the view was really rewarding, and we did quite some photos up there, being careful to stay away from the cliffs. This cautious behaviour disappeared when we reached the Devil’s Gate : after an hesitation, I decided to do like the others and climb on the big horizontal rock. But I didn’t venture in the middle, and stayed on the safe side. I’ve fell on the path just before, so I didn’t want to push my luck…
On the way down, we were walking on big smooth rocks and I got some tips and techniques from our guide Gaby. How to put my feet and distribute my weight, where to put my center of gravity… Of course I fell again, but instead of using the easier way close to the trees, I insisted to try again a few more times, and I finally managed ! That’s how we learn, right ?!
Hike Reinebringen – many stair steps – 5.0 km, 480m elevation
The next day, we were supposed to go to Matmora, but during the night the weather changed to rain and a lot of wind. As the hike is quite exposed, our guides decided to go to Reine instead : the weather predictions were better in this area.
Reinebringen is one of the most popular hike in the Lofoten islands, as the view is incredible. And it’s because I saw photos of this place, that I put Lofoten on my bucket list. So I was really excited when the guides told us our destination !
I heard before that this hike has a lot of stairs, but I hadn’t realised that this hike is just ONE gigantic stair… I won’t spoil the number of steps, but just know that it’s totally worth it ! It was tough for my legs and cardio, and I needed some extra little breaks. Our guide August stayed with me, gave me encouragements. He said that we had time, that I should find my pace, and most importantly, that I should enjoy the hike. I didn’t feel pushed, and I really enjoyed every moment of it ! I rapidly met the others up there, and the view was so amazing that I teared up a little… We had lunch, and we had a lot of time to enjoy the view and take photos.
Hike Matmora – 8.7 km, 750m elevation
The hike at Matmora is on an exposed ridge, so we had 2 options :
– taking a steep way up, walking on the mountain ridge, with small peaks on the way, and going down on the other side
– starting ”at the end” on the sea side, to have a less steep climb, hike as far as we wanted/could on the ridge, and go back the same way. That was a good option for people who are scared of height.
I’m always up for a challenge, but I’ve been sick since day 1 (it started in the train) and the night before I didn’t sleep well because I was coughing a bit. So i chose the second option, and it was really the best decision : I enjoyed it very much !!
Our little sub-group was guided by Emma and Nico. We had a nice slow pace, with several breaks to remove layers, drink a bit, eat a snack. We had time to take in all the beautiful views, to take photos. I still had breath to chat with our guides and the others, and to really enjoy the hike. It was a really good feeling !
The hike was not that easy, it was still going up for a while in the forest, on small rocks and tree roots. Some sheep were looking at us. And then we reached an open plateau, with the open sea on one side, and some mountains and lakes on the other. The weather was sunny, and occasional rain showers were bringing rainbows, which were a wonderful sight in this dreamy landscape.
The ones who wanted to go a bit on the ridge could follow Emma. She gave us lots of tips on how to save energy while hiking : muscles to engage, the little steps, the pace. Sometimes I feel ridiculous saying that « I learned how to walk » to non-hikers : but there are truly techniques to avoid hurting and to hike longer ! It’s always great to have feedback from more experienced hikers and explorers.
We walked a bit on the ridge and that was really cool ! We saw the other group coming from far away, so at some point we made a break and waited for them. Then we all hiked back together. The hike ended up being very wet as it started to rain, and the nice path up in the forest became a more struggling muddy downhill path. But we all made it back to the minibuses.
Foto Mats Fors @Matsforsphotography
Hike Nokksaetra circuit – 10.9 km, 430m elevation
I remember that on this specific morning, I was sitting on the couch in front of the big windows, looking at the terrible weather outside. It was grey, windy and raining so much, I couldn’t see the mountains… I would have been on my own, I would have stayed home. But who doesn’t like a good challenge? A hike was planned, the group effect took over : we were off to hike the Nøkksaetra loop, which is around 2 lakes and goes up to a hut.
We had been walking for only 30min, when the first challenge appeared : the path was flooded, going above the wooden planks… But nothing could stop our guides August and Gaby : they found some planks and built a bridge for us, ahah ! A few moment later, our balance was tested again, when we had to walk on a big rock at the edge of the water… It was still raining a lot, and we had to put our feet in the water several times. Rapidly, my socks were soaking wet, making smoochie sounds when I walked. After going up for a while, we arrived at the hut. It was closed, and we managed to take shelter under its porch, to have our lunch. It was still raining a lot, and the water was now going through my rain jacket. But there was something surreal to be there, under the rain : surprisingly, I was happy and smiling !
The landscape was beautiful, with many waterfalls doing down the surrounding mountains. Going down was tedious : the path was narrow, with rocks and slippery mud, and sometimes we were walking in a small water way. And then, drama happened : our path was going under a river ! Our guide tested the depth, and started laughing when his hiking pole couldn’t find the bottom. It had been raining so much, that the water was too deep… I think that seeing August laughing helped me to relax a bit : the situation was maybe not as dramatic as I thought. And rapidly, August and Gaby were brainstorming to find a safe way to make us go on the other side. The current was quite strong, and we had to go to a larger area that was less deep.
And that’s how I crossed my first river, secured by our two guides! They both stayed for a long time in the water, at 2 strategic points, to help us go across. Of course, walking in the water is a bit challenging, and there was a part where the water was a waist level… So my rain pants, my legging and my underwear were completely soaked by the cold water. The rest of the downhill hike was a bit weird, because it’s weird to walk in soaking wet pants, and we had to walk fast to stay warm. And there was still flooded areas…
Thing is : I was feeling safe, and even if i had a serious focused moment when we preped to cross the river, the atmosphere was so good in the group, that we had fun. For sure, that’s an epic moment I’ll remember !
Climbing in the Lofoten islands
During our trip, we also had the opportunity to try climbing natural rocks. The ones that were not interested decided to go for a kayak tour, and Emma arranged the location and kayak guide for an extra cost.
The approach hike was already quite challenging, testing our balance on beach boulders. Then we found out that a group was already climbing the route we wanted to do, so we had to hike up to get access to the area from the top. And this little hike was already like climbing, ahah !
We started by going down by rappel : secured with helmet and harness, having one the guides holding the lifeline, we had to ground our feet, sit in the air, and lean our bodies and head backwards towards the void. And walk backwards on the vertical wall…
That was very mentally challenging for me : having to let go and trust the guide with my life. On my first attempt, I froze and forgot to move my feet, ups ! So i fell a bit backwards, rapidly secured by our guide Nico. I decided to try again from the start, and listened to Nico who was letting me having extra stops to relax and shake my body to remove the tension. Slowly, I managed to go down, and there were some cheers : I love how everyone was so supportive in the group ! I had an overflow of emotions, and I teared up…
But then I realised I had another section to descend, aaah ! This time I was secured by Gaby, who was already at ground level. As I was fighting tears again, I got an eye-to-eye pep talk by August: I was secured, I could do it, I was already doing so good. So I took a deep breath and went down. That was easier this time !
They then asked me at 2 different times if i wanted to try to climb up, but I felt I already challenged myself enough. I watched the others going up and down, trying different techniques and routes. That was a really great opportunity to try, and our guides are clearly trusty, kind and supportive !
Conclusion on the Lofoten hiking trip
I really loved this trip to the Lofoten islands with Topo Travel ! The hikes and landscapes were incredible. Of course, one can rent a car and do the hikes on their own, but I was feeling safer with our guides. There were always support, help, and tips, and this was very valuable. Most of the time in swedish, so I was a bit lost, but I always got the proper information and support in english, when I needed it. I’ve met a few of other Topo Travel guides at various events in Stockholm, and they were all very kind, dedicated and happy to share their experience with us. So no matter who is guiding your trip, I’m pretty sure you’ll be in good hands !
As written in the trip description, one should be able to hike between 4 to 6 hours, and up to 500-1000m per day, with a small backpack. Having different paces in the group is not a problem, and I think that there are hikes for every kind of level. Also, I really like that the hikes were flexible, since we were staying in a central location : everyday was a bit of a surprise. This means that every Lofoten adventure will be unique, with different hike locations and difficulties.
Regarding the luxuous villa : it seemed too much at first glance, but it was really great to have so much space, and access to a warm shower, sauna and comfortable bed. The experience would have been different if we were sleeping in tents, especially since it was raining a lot !
So to conclude, I changed my mind about guided group trips, and would definitively go on another adventure with Topo Travel. Well, I actually already signed up for an expedition with them, and I have a bit more than a year to improve my swedish and my hiking pace.
/ Steph @Labelettequivoyage